The remoteness of Western Australia is one of its most charming aspects; that, and the stunning scenery, geology, and unique flora and fauna one has to discover. We took the trip in a camper-van, well worth the hours and hours of driving for the full freedom of exploration. However, with this freedom and isolation come a few serious dangers. From deadly jellyfish and man-eating crocodiles to smashing into a 200lb kangaroo full speed driving at night. The more terrifying dangers we managed to avoid during our 22 days up and down the coast, but what nearly turned our trip into disaster was entirely unexpected.

Day 16 of our 20 day trip up the coast the radio in our vehicle continuously warned of an imminent cyclone as we approached Broome, the North-West most city in Australia. A cyclone meant flooded roads and grounded planes; out here that equals total isolation from the rest of the world. The Northmost city of Darwin, a three day drive from Broome, was our final destination. As long as we managed to bypass the cyclone, we should be driving in the opposite direction for it to affect us.

Broome is a quaint little town along a rocky red coast, but anxiety about the rains got the better of us and our stay was cut to merely passing through. Driving East we experienced another two days of Australian outback beauty, but our state of bliss was soon interrupted by a muddy river bisecting the one paved road for hundreds of miles. With tragic memories of our horses drowning while playing “The Oregon Trail” in elementary school, we were certain our van wouldn’t make it through the torrent.

With no possible alternatives but turning back, we were at a loss, until a friendly Aboriginal family assured us by driving their much smaller vehicle through the flood. We held our breath while crossing, certain at any moment we would be swept away; the car felt more like a boat, but we made it through. A few hours later we hit an even more flooded road, but with heightened confidence from the last river fording, we splashed across, terrified, but again successful.

Only a day away from Darwin by now and the land has become ever more beautiful; blood red soil swelling with trickling water dotted with massive gray Boab trees. Miles of eerie termite mounds where the ancient aboriginals once placed their dead made the outback look more like a graveyard. We drove hours without seeing another human, but our maps assured us that “civilization” lay just ahead in the form of a tiny town named Timber Creek, where a bridge crosses Australia’s largest river; the Victoria.

Night falls before we arrive and we dare not drive the outback in the dark, as one is most certain to hit one of Australia’s most prolific rodent, the Kangaroo. The nearest camping spot is more like a muddy ghost town; signs dot the entrance warning of crocodile infestation and half the site it flooded by the distended brown river; we were the only people for miles. Our car tires stick to the thick red-brown mud as we drove to a spot to park. As with many parts of Australia, the scene is terrifying and stunning all at once.

Sleep came to the sound of bird, bug, and buzzing mosquito, and we woke to the radiant pink sun peaking through billowing black clouds. Standing barefoot and naked in the mud, outside and totally alone, surrounded by all the beauty nature has to offer we showered under a bladder filled with cool water. Back in the car, refreshed and excited we continue our last day on the road to Darwin.

The feeling of serenity was short lived however, as we arrived to the crossing to be informed that the bridge has been flooded by eight feet of water! A newer bridge exists going well over the flood, however the Australian military decided not to allow it open to civilian vehicles, because so many countries are itching to invade Australia’s outback right? I asked a local how long the civilian bridge is usually flooded, “Probably about three days…(there is hope!) to five weeks…(and there it goes).” Five weeks?! Our flight to Singapore was in five days and our camper-van due in three! Our only other option was to drive two full days back and return the van in Broome and fly to Darwin. Not wanting to risk waiting in this village with its one convenience store and fifty inhabitants for five weeks, we took this option.

After driving a full day a new radio message stops our hearts. Fitzroy crossing, another bridge between here and Broome is also flooded and allowing no cars to cross! There are no other roads, or bridges, or major cities, just pure Australia outback North, South, East and, West for hundreds of miles. Terror sets in at the thought of being completely stranded in the middle of nowhere for weeks waiting for the water subside.

As we arrive to the crossing at dusk, our fears become reality as we see the line of cars waiting for the water to lower. The skies are black in all direction; lighting sparkling in the distance. More rain tonight would mean more flooding and less hope of making it to Broome and “escaping” Australia. Isolation is so much nicer when you know you have quick access to civilization; even with the endless expanse of awe-inspiring Australian outback surrounding us, we still felt like hamsters in a cage. If we believed in particular deities we might have even prayed for it not to rain that night, but all we could do was go to sleep and see what awaited us in the morning.

Dawn broke and the ground was dry, but the cars were still backed up at the flooded Fitzroy Crossing when we arrived. Within minutes we were relieved to see cars begin moving. At the deepest point our wheels were almost completely submerged and the force of flowing water threatened to make our vehicle another floating piece of debris. We exhaled from holding our breath as our tires finally touched dry groups, and we were on a clear road to Broome again by nightfall.

The cyclone had mostly passed up the city area, traveling north to cause the floods, but warnings of new storms were persistent. We spent two days in Broome, and in the long run were glad we did. The tide pools of Broome are quite spectacular; blue crabs, anemones, seas slugs, octopuses that change color and shoot ink, and dinosaur footprints between black lava rocks covered in colorful microbes and coral.

After a couple relaxed days mingling with the locals and exploring the town, the moment came for our flight to Darwin. ‘Modest’ would be an embellishment at the size of the Broome airport; we’ve seen larger super markets. They checked my passport, but didn’t even bother with Jessica’s identification which we found unusual. The storm clouds engulfing the airport made us increasingly nervous that the cyclone would hit and cancel all flights, but they assured us that everything was on schedule. We waited patiently for boarding, and when the time came we enthusiastically walked out onto the tarmac. We could almost taste freedom…but the crew quickly shattered all hopes.

Without reason or warning they herded everyone back into the terminal. We sat and waited for an announcement, feeling utterly defeated and certain we would be stuck in Broome for months until the rain season is over. We prepared ourselves for the worst and assured one another that more devastating things have happened in the world! Ten minutes later the call came over the loudspeaker to re-board the plane.

A man of comical height had apparently hit his head while boarding the plane and knocked himself out.  Medics came aboard to check he was okay before the flight could be boarded. Crisis over, no thanks to the Jolly Green Giant, but he was apologetic wrapped in his white head bandage. We made it to Darwin, and after a couple days drinking with the Australian military and trying to convince them to let people use their bridge, we left Australia with a bang and were ready to dive into Asia as our adventure continued!

Written by: David Jackson.