Each bump crunched my innards as we rode in a packed minivan to the outskirts of Amritsar, India. We arrived at the border of Pakistan for the India/Pakistan gate closing ceremony; having no idea what to expect. Walking to the concrete structure ahead was like the parking lot before a major football game. Tents, umbrellas, chairs, tables, and coolers were scattered left and right as entrepreneurs shouted out their refreshment options; soda, juice, chaat, and even popcorn. After a quick pit stop for some mango juice, we headed into the stadium. Hundreds of Indians danced and cheered in a colorful mosh-pit to blasting Bollywood music. As men danced like it was 1999, the women, clad in bright, elegant sarees, sat calmly in the “women only” section, observing their husbands as one might observe chimpanzees in a zoo. With a full stadium, we stood wondering where we would find a place to sit. “Please, come with me,” asked an AK-47 armed military guard.
We were escorted directly to the VIP section. Our new surroundings were comprised of two types of people; rich Indians and six white people looking very under-dressed for the occasion. Indian guards stood at crisp attention below. Gold and silver metals lined the breasts of their flawlessly ironed khaki uniforms. Each was adorned with a red, gold, and black sash across his waist, and a like colored fan atop his head. One soldier stood out among the rest, Narjeet. Narjeet has a mustache to be proud of; with wide dramatic eyes searching the audience like a mother owl protecting her young. He stood with pride, giving off a stoic, noble air as his gaze pierced your very soul. No amount of flowery writing however can do Narjeet justice so here is a picture of this living god.
A man came out with a microphone and riled the audience to chanting “Hindustan, Zindabar” (long live India!). Now drawing our attention however, was the other side of the border. Dressed in bland robes and headscarves, men and women sat quietly in bleacher seats far opposite one another. Excitement grew as Pakistani guards began filing out from their post. Crisp black uniforms with red and gold lined sashes, head fans, and flowing capes. In strikingly similar fashion to Imperial Storm Trooper Captains and with AK-47’s strapped to their backs, they marched down the stairs as an overly enthusiastic man came sprinting into view waving a massive green and gold Pakistani flag. The Pakistani side suddenly awoke from its to begin loudly shouting what we can only assume in Arabic meant “Long live Pakistan!”
Higher ranking guards on both sides began barking long drawn out orders as the enthusiastic crowds hushed. Narjeet’s voice bellowed above all, his mustache quivering with each order. Legs kicking higher than Bruce Lee, the troops marched briskly towards one another to come face to face at the border. Every motion looked like a video cassette on fast forward. Soldiers puffed up their chests, wide eyed, their big bristling mustaches twitching with their grimaces. The fans on their heads wobbled side to side looking like an angry peacock getting ready for a fight. Yelling, goose-stepping, stomping, and glaring ensued as the Indian and Pakistani audiences shouted at one another through an iron fence.
The respective flags were lowered, the slowest part of the ceremony lest one side lower theirs first and show a lack of national pride. At the event’s climax, Narjeet barked the final orders for the official closing of the gates. Simultaneously, the Indian and Pakistani guards slammed the gates on either side shut. The moment metal clasps latched the guards turned on their heels, sashes trailing behind, and goose-stepped away faster than a New Yorker on speed. Narjeet and company stood tall and proud at attention as cheers erupted louder than ever and the ceremony came to a close. For two countries who claim to hate one another so much, it struck us odd that both sides developed such a choreographed, perfectly coordinated event with one another. Yet, still the most surprising aspect of the entire experience is that the vast majority atendees on both sides were 100% sober.
Here are some links to videos we took of the event to give a better feel for its magnificence. If you are ever in the area, the ceremony is something you simply cannot miss!
Written by: Dave Jackson
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